New Shop Located at: 5394 County Road N Sun Prairie, WI 53590 (Map)
I/O Winterization Checklist
Winterizing I/Os
Add fuel
stabilizer (Stabil or equivalent) to fuel
tank(s) per directions. It’s always best to top off your fuel tank(s) to
prevent condensation over layup.
Start and run
motor on muffs at high idle (~2000 rpms) in
neutral for 15 to 20 minutes. This will warm up the gear lube allowing it
to drain faster, and warm up the motor oil so that it can be sucked out.
Remove flame
arrestor and fog engine with fogging oil. Try to use a full can, and spray
into carburetor until motor dies, or turn off the motor immediately after
the can is empty.
Using an oil
sucker, remove oil from motor through the dipstick. If you don’t have a
sucker, try to get a shallow drain pan under oil plug, or drain into bilge
and out the rear drain plug (not recommended).
Drain lower unit
gear lube. If gear lube is milky, your lower unit will need to be resealed
and pressure tested. Take it to a qualified marine mechanic.
Open petcocks or
drains on block, manifolds, and risers and drain out all water. If nothing
comes out, use an ice pick and poke into holes. Often sediment will
restrict the opening, which prevents water from draining. For late model Volvo/Pentas and Bravo drives, also remove hoses going to the raw water pump in the engine compartment and drain.
Closed Cooling
System Only: Drain heat exchanger and check antifreeze. Do not drain
block, manifolds, risers, or power steering cooler unless you are
replacing the antifreeze.
Remove coolant
hoses from thermostat housing that lead to the manifolds and pour in pink
RV antifreeze (-50 F) into hoses until you see pink running out of
manifold and block drains (usually a half gallon is sufficient).
If motor is
equipped with power steering and has a power steering cooler (most V-6s,
V-8s, and some 4 cylinders), drain it. You may need to remove a power
steering coolant hose to do so if not equipped with a drain plug.
Close petcocks
and/or replace drain plugs.
If boat is used
in salt water, fill block and risers with RV antifreeze.
Reconnect
coolant hoses.
Replace oil
filter.
Fill motor with
good quality motor oil, normally 4.5 to 5 quarts. Follow manufacturer’s
recommendations for oil grade and weight. I normally use Sierra 25W-40 Premium Blend Inboard Engine Oil
Fill lower unit
with good quality gear lube. For Mercruisers,
fill from the bottom drain hole until gear lube runs out of vent hole.
Replace vent plug screw first, then drain plug. For OMC Cobras, fill from
the center hole on the lower unit just above the cavitation
plate until it registers on the dip stick. Always fill with lower unit in
a vertical position. Mercruisers normally take
33 oz, OMC Cobras 64 oz, V/Ps 90 oz.
Lubricate gimbal bearing (30 pumps) and outdrive
pivot points with marine grease.
Remove prop and
thrust washer, inspect propshaft seal, remove
any fishing line, lightly grease prop shaft, and re-install prop.
Prior to
Storage:
Place lower unit
in down position. This allows any water in the outdrive to drain out, and prevents the outdrive bellows from taking a “set”.
Remove battery,
clean surface and terminals, and store in a cool, dry place. Every 30 to
45 days, put battery on trickle charge (< 6 amps) for 4 to 5 hours.
Put trailer on
blocks and remove tires, or put wood under tires.
If covered
outdoors, provide ventilation to prevent condensation (this especially
important for shrink wrapped boats).
If you are
particularly ambitious, wash and wax the boat and hull above the water
line.